Crafting the "Compact Flemish Jig"
Introduction
For those of you who followed along on the construction of the first jig
for making the Flemish bowstring - you're going to LOVE this one! This compact
version (see photo) really takes the math
out of getting the strands to build the Flemish String.
The overall jig is only 30" by 2 1/2" as shown in the plan
below. The thickness depends on what you can get your hands on - it is not a
critical dimension. Mine is made from 1" (nominal, actual 3/4") pine
and has served me well.
To try to make it easier to follow - I have color-code the
jig plans shown below. The following indicates what is what...
- Dimension Lines
- The dimensions and their lines are shown in black around the outside of the jig.
- "Peg" Holes
- The green circles numbered 48 through 72
are drilled just big enough to fit a nail tightly. Note that these holes are
NOT drilled all the way through the jig board. (just in case you're getting
ahead of me on this ...)
- Finishing Nails
- The array of 2x10 red circles on the right
end of the diagram, and the two on the left end represent finishing nails which
have been driven into the jig and left standing about 1/2" to an inch
above the jig surface.
- B50 String Path
- The path that you wrap the B50 string is shown with
blue lines and arrows to indicate the
direction(s).
Building the Jig
As they always say - read all instructions before beginning. You may even
want to read the "Using the Compact Flemish
Jig" page before building it - just to make sure everything is clear
in your mind before firing up the power tools!
The diagram below shows dimensions - the background grid on the diagram
contains 1" grids for scaling reference. To see a photo of a completed jig
- click here.
- Cut a board to the 30" by 2 1/2" overall dimensions
- Locate a center line running the whole length of the jig.
- Locate and Drill the Peg Holes
- Measure 3" in from the left side of the jig along the center line -
this will be the first hole (48) on drawing.
- Mark the rest of the peg holes which are on 1" centers from each
other.
- Find a nail - a "2 penny" or common nail about the size you'd
use for roughing 2x4's. Cut the nail so that you have the head and a section
about 1 1/2" long including the head. You only need one of these - this is
your "peg". Select a drill bit which bores a hole big enough for the
"peg" to fit in snuggle. Drill the 13 holes (marked 48, 50, ... 72)
but do NOT drill all the way through the wood! Use a drill press and set the
depth about 1/4" from the underside of the jig. If using a hand drill -
use a scrap piece of wood as a block next to the drill to stop it from going
all the way through when the chuck hits the block. Drill the 13 holes.
- Optional - Saw a "cutting groove"
- This is NOT shown on the diagram and is not really required. On the jigs
I have built, I sawed a groove which runs right between the row of nails on the
right side of the jig - right where the numbers "9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0"
are shown. I used a table saw and set the blade so it was only 1/8" above
the table surface - then with the jig UPSIDE DOWN I cut a groove down the
center line for a length of about 6". As you'll see later when we talk
about how to use the jig - this 1/8" groove facilitates cutting the B50
strands. Again, it's not required - just a little bell-n-whistle you can add to
your jig. If you're going to do it - do it now - before you put the finishing
nails in!
- Locate and drill starter-holes for the 22 finishing nails. It's best to
drill the pilot holes because with all the nails running parallel to the edges
of the board - it will usually split if the nails are just driven in without
pilots! (Trust me on this - I've made some scrap jigs because of the
splitting....)
- The two holes on the left side of the jig are located 1" in from
the end, and 1/2" inch from each edge.
- The "array" of 20 nails at the right end of the jig begin
1" in from the right end of the jig. Each row of nails are on 1/2"
centers from each other and each row is 1/2" inch in from the edge of the
board.
- Drill the pilot holes (slight smaller diameter than the small finishing
nails - again do NOT drill all the way through the board.
- Install the finishing nails (20 on the right, 2 on the left)- leave them
stick up about 1". The exact height is not critical - it is nice to keep
them all the same height however.
- Sanding, Finishing and "Numbering"
- Sand the jig and round the edges and corners.
- Stain the jig - if you wish. Use a light colored stain so that your
numbers are legible.
- Do the following numbering with a permanent marker or India Ink.
- Number the AMO Bow Length numbers by the peg holes. These are the 48,
50, 52 ... 72 numbers shown on the diagram under the green "peg
holes". Yes - those numbers are really on the jig! They tell you what hole
to put your "peg" (nail) in depending on the AMO Bow Length of the
bow you are making the string for.
- Number the finishing nail columns - shown as 9 8 7 ... 0 on the diagram.
In practice - the numbers actually go below the bottom row of nails - not
between them like shown on the diagram. (It was clearer to show them on the
diagram between the rows...) With the numbers along the bottom edge of the
board - they won't get worn down as you use the jig. (If you cut the
"cutting groove" this is obvious - because the groove is where the
numbers are shown!)
- Draw the B50 String path on the jig. This will serve as permanent
instructions of use! The path is shown on the diagram by blue lines and arrows.
- Check out the "other bells-n-whistles" point below - after all
of your "numbering" is done - apply a poly finish to protect your
jig.
- Other "bells-n-whisles"
- Scribe a 0, 3 and 8 inch mark on the front edge of the jig. This
provides a handle ruler for the making of the jig - as the end braiding is
started 8" from the end of the strands and braided a length of 3"
until bending the loop. (See Crafting the Flemish
String for details on what this all means...)
- Letter a table of Bow Weight versus Number of Strands of B50 on the jig.
My jig has the following table written on it as a handy reference.
Bow Weight |
Strands of B-50 |
20-45# |
12 |
45-55# |
14 |
55-80# |
16 |