PAPER TUNE SETUP

This method will:

(1) Determine is the nock point is correct. This can be corrected.

(2) Determine if the arrows are stiff or weak.  This may or may not be corrected.

 

The TUNING FRAME consists of a frame to hold a sheet/piece of paper.           versus

 

METHOD

Stand 5 to 6 meters from the tuning frame.  The target matt should be at least 1 meter behind the frame. This will allow the bare shaft to pass completely through the paper.   Shoot a bare shaft though the paper about shoulder high to allow for a parallel flight.   The tear of the paper will determine the current tune. We will adjust the vertical tear first.

 

 

 

Figure 1.  TEAR UP

TEAR UP.  The point of the bare shaft went in low and the nock went in high.  The NOCK POINT is too high.  Move the NOCK POINT  down.

Figure 2. TEAR DOWN
 

TEAR DOWN.  The point of the bare shaft went in high and the nock went in low.  The NOCK Point is too low.  Move the NOCK POINT up.

Adjust the NOCK POINT until the tear is neither up nor down.  

FIGURE 3.  LEFT TEAR.
 

The point of the bare shaft went in to the right. The nock tears the paper to the left.

 

FIGURE 4.  RIGHT TEAR.
 

The point of the bare shaft went in to the left.  The nock tears the paper to the right.

 

 

The next section will adjust the horizontal tear.

 

HORIZONTAL TEAR

Right-Hand Archers

 

The figure shows a LEFT TEAR.  The shaft is too weak.  If the tear is 1-3 inches, the shaft can be stiffened by decreasing the weight in the point or decreasing bow weight.  If the tear is greater than 3 inches, the shaft is too weak.  Select a stiffer shaft.

 

 

The figure shows a RIGHT TEAR.  The shaft is too stiff.   If the tear is 1-3 inches, the shaft can be weakened by increasing the weight in the point or by increasing bow weight.  If the tear is greater than 3 inches, the shaft is too stiff. Select a weaker shaft.

 

A tear less than 1 inch, right or left is okay.  A single hole is ideal.

Left-Hand Archers

 

too stiff.  If the tear is 1-3 inches, the shaft can be weakened by increasing the weight in the point or by increasing bow weight.  If the tear is greater than 3 inches, the shaft is too stiff.  Select a weaker shaft.

 

The figure shows a RIGHT TEAR.  The shaft is too weak.   If the tear is 1-3 inches, the shaft can be stiffened by decreasing the weight in the point or decreasing bow strength.  If the tear is greater than 3 inches, the shaft is too weak. Select a stiffer shaft.

 

A tear less than 1 inch, right or left, is okay.  A single hole is ideal.

 

LEFT-HAND ARCHER

SHOOT WITH STIFF PLUNGER

 

The STIFF PLUNGER is in the center of the bow.  Shoot fletched arrows from 18 meters.  Shoot the best group possible in the center of the target.  Adjust the sight if necessary.   Remove STIFF PLUNGER and install PLUNGER WITH SPRING.

 

See figure.  Adjust the PLUNGER until the left edge of the arrow is in line with the right side of the string.  Do not use the point but use the end of the shaft. Shoot from 18 meters but DO NOT ADJUST THE SIGHT.  Correct the flight of the arrow by adjusting the tension of the SPRING in the PLUNGER.  Shoot the arrows in the same target and shoot the best group possible. If the arrows are tothe right of center, weaken the SPRING (CCW).  If the arrows are to the left of center, stiffen the SPRING (CW).  Adjust the SPRING until the group is in the center of the target. This group should be the same as the group using the STIFF PLUNGER/CENTER SHOT METHOD.   For more exact tuning, go to Drop Method.

 

 

RIGHT-HAND ARCHER 

 

The STIFF PLUNGER is in the center of the bow.   Shoot fletched arrows from 18 meters.  Shoot the best group possible in the center of the target.  Adjust the sight if necessary.   Remove STIFF PLUNGER and install PLUNGER WITH SPRING.

 

See figure.  Adjust the PLUNGER until the right edge of the arrow is in line with the left edge of the string.  Do not use the point, use the end of the shaft.  Shoot from 18 meters but DO NOT ADJUST THE SIGHT.  Correct the flight of the arrow with the SPRING in the PLUNGER.  Shoot the arrows in the same target and shoot the best group possible. If the arrows group to the left of the center, weaken the SPRING (CCW).  If the arrows are to the right of center, stiffen the SPRING (CW).   Adjust the SPRING until the group is in the center of the target. The group should be the same as the group using the STIFF PLUNGER/CENTER SHOT METHOD. For more fine tuning, turn to Drop Method.

 

DROP METHOD

Pick a mark at the top of the target.  Shoot from 10 meters and adjust the sight if necessary. Move back 5 meters at a time and continue to shoot at the top of the target.  The arrows will drop down the target. Move back as far as possible. Approximately 40 to 50 meters for most bows. If the arrows drift right or left as they fall, more tuning is required.

Shoot from the furthermost distance where the arrows are still on the target.  Continue aiming a the mark at the top of the target.  If the arrows fall to the right or left, the tune needs more adjusting, go to Patterns. If the arrows fall in a straight line, the tune is good.  The Patterns section may not be necessary but read over it anyway.

 

PATTERNS

 

LEFT-HAND ARCHERS If the arrows fall to the left side of center, stiffen the SPRING(CW) until the arrows are in the center line. If the arrows fall to the right side of center, weaken the SPRING(CCW) until the arrows are in the center line.

RIGHT-HAND ARCHERS   If the arrows fall to the left side of center, weaken the SPRING (CCW) until the arrows are in the center line. If the arrows fall to the right side of center, stiffen the SPRING (CW) until the arrows are in the center line.

 

NOTE:  Approximately 1/4 turn (90 degrees) of the spring will move the arrows 4 inches at 40 meters.

 

TUNING FOR PERFECTION

 

This is the beginning of  fine tuning.  The fine tuning can be done during normal practice.  Choose a long distance:  60/70 meters for women, 70/90 meters for men.  Shoot 6 ends of 6 arrows.  Make a chart of the groups. Stiffen the plunger (CW) for about 1/2 turn.  Shoot another 6 ends of 6 arrows.  Make a new chart for this group.  Again, stiffen the PLUNGER another 1/2 turn, shoot, and chart. Continue this procedure until the groups start to open up.  Be sure to record the number of turns. Turn the plunger back to the beginning of this exercise.  Weaken the PLUNGER by 1/2 turn (CCW) and shoot 6 ends of 6 arrows.  Chart the groups.  Repeat the exercise as before until the groups begin to open up. Review all the charts and find the best group.  Adjust the PLUNGER to the setting.  This should be the best tune. If there is time and patience, repeat the above exercise using 1/4 and 1/8 turns.  Excellence takes persistence!

 

Go to 18 meters and shoot a group in the center of the target.  Now shoot a bare shaft and note where it lands on the target in relation to the group.  For example, see the figure 1.  The fine tuning has found a better set-up.  Do not be concerned if the bare shaft did not group with the fletched arrows. NOTE:  It is important to record where the bare shaft hits in relation to the group.  Record this in figure 2 for later use. If an emergency arises where the bow needs to be re-tuned quickly, set the nock point, then adjust the spring tension until the bare shaft hits relative to where the group is, as you recorded using figure 2.

 

INDEX NOCKS
 
 

Are the vanes touching the arrow rest or any part of the shelf when you shoot?  Put some red lipstick on the support arm of the arrow rest.  See figure 1.   Shoot some arrows and see if the vanes are making contact.  If there is some lipstick on the vanes, rotate the nock until there isn't any lipstick.

 

We want to find exactly when the vanes make contact with the rest or shelf.  Turn the nock and shoot until the vane begins to rub.  Make a mark on the shaft directly opposite the mold mark on the nock.  See figure 2.   This is where the rub starts for that particular vane.

 
 

Turn the nock in the opposite direction and repeat the above procedure until the next vane begins to rub.  Make another mark opposite the mold mark on the nock.  These two marks indicate where the two vanes rub the bow.  Turn the nock until the mold mark is directly in between these two marks.

 

This should be maximum clearance.  Mark every arrow the same  See figure 3.

11. RECORD IMPORTANT INFORMATION
 
 

DATE:	Outdoor	Indoor	Notes
Riser (brand, height)	.	..	..	.
Limbs(brand,wt & length)	.	..	..	.
Upper Tiller (#3)	.	.	.
Brace Height (#2)	.	.	.
Lower tiller (#4)	.	.	.
Length of string	.	.	..	.
Type and number of strands	.	.	.	.
Nock point (use fixed point like edge of plunger)	.	.	.	.
Sight used.	.	.	.	.
Arrow brand and size	.	.	.	.
Arrow length	.	.	.	.
Type of point and weight	.	.	.	.
Type of nock	.	..	.	.
Type, Color, size of fletching	.	.	.	..
Plunger	.	..	..	...
Other:.	.	.	.	.
.	.	.	.	.
.	.	.	.	.

 

 

Note from the author:
This method has been used for many years by some of the top archers.  There are quicker methods but I believe this is the most complete.   This method tunes and gives an idea of how the equipment works.   Rick Stonebraker.